WOW!!!
Pelourinho, the heart of the old town of Salvador, is the beating heart of this city. It reminded me so much of the streets of Alfama and Bairro Alto in Lisbon. Large squares dominated by churches, cobbled stoned streets, narrow lanes which are (mostly) car-free, people of all shapes, sizes, skin colours and attire everywhere to be seen. There is colour everywhere, sunshine everywhere, happiness everywhere, music everywhere, food everywhere. Pelourinho is without any doubt, the type of place that pulls me in, makes me feel alive. My senses come alive, I smile, I am happy to be here.
I don’t remember visiting Pelourinho in 1982. Perhaps we did. Perhaps we didn’t. No matter, I am here now, in 2026, and loving every minute of this very old part of Salvador with a distinct Portuguese feel.
There are market stalls selling “aracajá,” a speciality of this area. I have no idea what it is but am anxious to taste it. I approach a smiling “Bahiana.” She is happy to help me understand exactly what it is, what’s in it, and convinces me that I’d like it. I pay my twenty five reais, and take the aracajá and sit down on a bench, in the sunshine, along with others, and take a bite. It’s delicious. Filling. Messy. It’s too much for me to finish eating it, and I don’t want to throw it away. I stand up, start walking away and spot a hunch-backed beggar, walking slowly, staring down onto the street for whatever he can find. I offer him the rest of my lunch, and he willingly takes it, smiling and thanking me, and I thanked him back. And wished him the rest of a nice day.
I set off for more exploration of Pelourinho. Up and down the streets in the sunshine. Past the Jorge Amado museum.
I wanted to find two items of clothing, which back in 1982, my father had bought for me in Salvador. The first, a pair of hand-made leather flip flops and the second, a white summer dress, reminiscent of what the Baiana’s wear.
I passed by a tiny shop, with a wiry elderly man sitting on the stoop, selling his leather wares. And got my pair of leather flip flops. The white dress was more difficult. But I found a little shop in the end, and got the white dress, which I will wear in Switzerland as soon as the warmer weather arrives.
Thank you Pelourinho. I will remember you and hope to be back one day.
Dates: February 2026
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