This is an iconic cafe for yachties in Horta. It’s still there and currently being run by the original Peter’s nephew. I have a photo of all of us standing outside the cafe From 1982. Of course, a visit this time round was planned.
It’s quite small and dark inside; there are flags of all descriptions hanging from the ceiling; the walls are covered in stickers and photos; there’s a bar where you can order food and drink; there’s a little corner showcasing jewellry and other wares made out of (mostly sperm) whales teeth which you can buy; and upstairs is the scrimshaw museum, which was not open at the time of my visit.
Back in 1982, when we were on Horta, and when whaling was still in full swing by the island fisherman (commercial whaling in the Azores ended in 1984 after the global ban by the International Whaling Commission), I distinctly remember the powerful and foul odour wafting over the channel from Pico, where a whale was being dissected.
My father ordered some scrimshaw items for all of us, and I have both of mine to this day. I had taken it with me to show them at Pete’s Cafe Sport, and they were really amazed to see it. I was lucky it wasn’t confiscated, as I have since come to learn that they can and will be confiscated by customs, since whales are a protected species. I would have hated to lose mine; it’s accompanied me wherever I go for all these years, like a talisman.
I sat and enjoyed a glass of wine by myself, reflecting and imagining us all here all those years ago. Coincidentally, my youngest brother, who was two at the time, and is now in his mid forties and a musician, has been invited to perform live at the cafe more than once. When I mentioned his name, they all knew him.
Dates: March 2026
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