Having accomplished my mission to find where we had been anchored in 1982, I woke up to my last day in Fernando de Noronha with plans to have another beach day. The closest to where I was staying was Praia do Conceição, according to the concierge, only ten minutes away.
So I packed water, a light picnic, and headed off, following the rudimentary signage. It was all downhill and about fifteen minutes in the end.
Like on Praia do Boldrió, I paid one hundred Reais for a deck chair, umbrella and small table; there were very few beachgoers, and there was a stall selling coconuts, Capirinhas and water.
I forgot my suncream, stupidly, because I suffer from sun rash. I’m not young anymore and long gone are the days when I’d use olive oil for sun-tanning, but I didn’t fancy losing my spot and walking all the way back uphill to get it. So I risked it. (Silly idea because I broke out in rash later that evening).
It was a wonderful beach day, though. The ocean was warm and inviting. I went in and out. I slept. I read. I remembered. I could not resist a Capirinha with the flavour of “ciriguela.” I have no idea what it is but it was delicious.
I ended my day at the same restaurant I had been to the entire time (there are very few to choose from) and listened to the mellow tones of the Brazilian music in the background, my skin itchy, but feeling healthy, happy, relaxed, sunburnt, appreciative, grateful, and dreaming of one day returning to this paradise.
Dates: February 2026
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