Tag: Faial

  • Azores: Faial

    Azores: Faial

    Horta is an island for yachties. Almost every sail vessel crossing the Atlantic from west to east, heading for Europe or the Mediterranean, will stop at Horta. For us, after spending twenty eight days at sea, it was a sight for sore eyes. I can only imagine the feelings that my father must have had at arriving and finally reaching his home territory safely.

    Forty four years ago, we were greeted by and escorted into Faial Harbour by a Portuguese frigate, whose officers had heard over the radio waves that Scally was approaching. I believe either the captain or one of the senior officers was a fellow naval officer from the fifties and sixties when my father himself had been a member of the Portuguese navy.

    Today’s marina is very different from what it was in 1982, with an entirely new marina having been built with pontoons and jetties. The original sea wall is still there but unfortunately I was not allowed access; it’s restricted to the public because cargo ships tie up alongside.

    What still sticks out at first sight, and everywhere you look, is the art work on the walls and pavements, creations by the yachties to memorialise their trip, crew, and time on Horta. We also did one for Scally, but it would have been on the original sea wall and certainly no longer visible after so long. I walked for a couple of hours up and down the quayside and looking out over the marina and boats. Most of the flags were not Portuguese. Most likely boats which had reached Horta and been left there for a while until the crew returned to sail onwards.

    I wanted to find two artworks in particular. Spotting them is like trying to find a needle in a haystack. One would belong to one of my closest friends, a very keen and avid sailor from New Zealand, who often sails with us now on Illustrious 6, and who crossed the Atlantic a few years ago. I regretfully could not find that piece of artwork. The second one I did, but only after being told by my brother its approximate location. My oldest brother and his crew arrived in Horta about seven years ago having crossed from the Caribbean. One of the crew members was my niece, his daughter, a teenager at the time, who designed the artwork. She was very happy to know that I had found it.

    I honoured all the artworks visible and invisible and all the brave captains, crew members, families and children who reached Horta after crossing the mighty Atlantic.

  • Azores: Arrival in Horta

    Azores: Arrival in Horta

    Scally and her crew were at sea for twenty eight days, crossing the Atlantic from Fernando de Noronha islands, off the north east coast of Brazil in the South Atlantic, across the equator into the North Atlantic and arriving safely in the port of Horta on the island of Faial in the Azores in June 1982.

    My sabbatical recreation of this trip (not by sea for obvious reasons) visiting all our ports of call, brought me to Horta in 2026. I remembered it clearly, much more clearly than St Helena, Salvador or Fernando de Noronha.

    Faial is the most beautiful island, extremely well upkept, clean and tidy, with tiny villages and small colourful houses mostly overlooking the ocean and other islands of the Azores. It’s very green and lush, with many hills and valleys and the bright pink azaleas were in full bloom everywhere. The sun was shining and it was a pleasant twenty degrees with very little wind. The Açoreanos are calm and quiet, quite different to the mainland Portuguese. They are exceptionally friendly and welcoming, like most Portuguese, and open to all my enquiries of what the bay looked like in 1982, what the island was like, how it had changed, and why I was there.

    Like St Helena and Fernando de Noronha, the sea is omnipresent, shining and bright, and, calm. The sun was sprinkling its rays on the surface and I needed my hat and sunglasses. I decided on a whim to hire a car and go and find the places we had visited in 1982. Caldeira, the volcano crater; and o Vulcão, the moonscape unlived in area of the island which was created in the fifties out of a volcano eruption. The island is easy to navigate. It’s not very large, and the roads are in extremely good condition, and there are not many cars.

    It was a truly beautiful day. I was surrounded by memories of having stood in those places at the age of sixteen, and standing there now. Pure beauty and nature everywhere you look. Whether across the sea to the islands of Pico and São Jorge; or at the stunning rock pools created on the ocean shore at the Vulcão, which a young family was swimming in when I arrived; to the lovely, multi-coloured houses along the way; to the happy waving villagers; to the town of Horta. I very much hope to be back one day.

    Dates: March 2026